Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Closer to Heaven

[Feb 24-25, 2012]
" It's not about how you capture a scenery--it's about how the scenery captures you."
Really. For an island girl like me, this place is just............pure heaven.
And yes --we're still in the Philippines. Surprise! It's like a winter morning without snow.
But before I get carried away, this is the last part of our very very short Sagada Trip.
Less than 24 hours to be exact.
Since we had a very limited time, we had to make sure that we don't miss 
trekking to Echo Valley and find out why it was named as such.
When we woke up on our second/last day in Sagada, it was just FOG everywhere!
Our windows were filled with mist and it seemed very dark outside though it was nearly 7am already.
It was soooo cold. But no matter how tempting it was to get back to bed and hide under the sheets,
we forced ourselves to get up. After some hot chocolate and coffee we're off to meet with Kuya John.
It was quite a busy day for the locals of Sagada because it was Saturday.
The day when people from different places gather to buy or sell merchandise.
Kuya John led  the way and just about a minute's walk, we reached Church of St. Mary the Virgin.
It is an Episcopalian church built by the American missionaries.




It was still closed when we came so we just took some photos outside.
 
A peak of the Church's interior.
If I remembered correctly, this bell was supposed to be the church's bell. But during the American war it was destroyed and was later transferred to this place as another landmark of Sagada's history.
As we went further on to reach Echo Valley, I noticed how alone we were.
It was about 8am but it seemed the areas we passed by were steered clear of other tourists and locals.
Honestly, I wasn't really that scared. I preferred to have this morning walk in quiescence and serenity. It was actually the perfect time not to think of anything and just listen to the sounds of nature, of our footsteps and to the occasional history excerpts from Kuya John 
I've tried trekking several times before and I didn't have any problems even when it was hot.
But this is the first time I experienced trekking in a very cold weather and I was wearing short-shorts.
Boy was it hard! My legs were practically dead-cold.
Anyhow, we continued on and we were lead to this cemetery...
Fear not for that is my silhouette. Mr. Sun just woke up and gave us beautiful shots even with just a point and shoot camera.

I'm not in anyway bragging or being boastful, but I just loooove this photo! It's like it came from a magazine or something. This is a very raw picture, not edits whatsoever. This is a silhouette of SAGGAS founder, our guide,Kuya John Magwilang, while I was trailing behind him during our trek. I just love Sagada and I never get tired of saying that.
Now, back to our current location.
This cemetery was established during the American era. According to our guide, Americans actually offered to pay the families of those who will bury their loved ones here INSTEAD of their customary hanging of coffins. Maybe because the Americans wanted to help the locals bury their dead in an organized and hygienic manner.
This cemetery is quite big and as we passed by each grave we tried to observe their birth and death years.




We walked further on towards Echo Valley and to that place where you can actually see Sagada's hanging coffins.


While taking a break from all the walking..picture!hehe!
 Because the fog was so thick that morning, some hanging coffins that are usually visible from afar were obscured. Kuya John just pointed out some directions where we were supposed to see them.
There are actually hanging coffins on that mountain.
and..we have reached Echo Valley! This is exactly where you stand and 'shout your heart out' and you'll hear the echo of your voice. Kuya John said this is the area where you can let your frustration/anger out and just throw it all out to the mountains in exchange for temporary relief.
with our guide (view his profile here)
with our guide (view his profile here)
We did not really appreciate 100% of the view but the feeling of just being there made all the trek worth it. But wait, let's not forget we were also heading to see the hanging coffins.
This limestone mountain so to say used to have hanging coffins that were destroyed due to extreme weather conditions and maybe because the coffins were not securely fastened. Overtime, part of this limestone cliff was eroded and only the memory of the locals serve as proof that there once were hanging coffins on its wall.
 But no worries, because just a few steps away, we were lead to this:
tadah! the hanging coffins of Sagada!


Ancient Sagada history has this burial ritual that includes letting the body sit on 'death chairs' at home shortly after their passing, with smoke under it to preserve it throughout the 5-day pre-burial feast. The body is then enclosed in a carved log that serves as a coffin. Relatives will then hang the coffin of their loved one high above the limestone cliffs, formerly fastened by mere tree extensions,but now more safely secure by metal rods.
Some of these coffins are positioned way high up in limestone cliffs that travelers begin to imagine how they did it. The idea of this ancient ritual is that the higher the body is placed, the closer it is to heaven. This way the bodies of are also protected from the potential damage brought by natural disasters such as typhoon, earthquake and flood.


Because of this almost crude method, you can see traces of blood that might've leaked out of the coffins years ago when they were installed. Embalming was not that popular before, and wasn't practiced.
That's simply how their death chair looks like.
According to our guide, their ancestors used that wooden tripod before they used the chair.


We actually learned a lot from this experience, from our guide and from Sagada.
The world is still filled with beautiful places. Let's travel more!



I'm so proud of you!!! We survived Sagada!!! Weeee!

Monday, June 11, 2012

Cave Connection: There's no turning back, literally!

[Feb 24-25, 2012]


According to the official website of SAGGAS,
the Cave Connection:
"This is rather more adventurous than Sumaging cave,
if you think you’re a good spelunker, this one is for you!"
The whole duration of the activity would take at least four (4) hours
There are lots of small passages you have to undertake, crawl if you must and follow your guides advice. From there on, there are at least three rope assisted descents and one climb. 
During rainy season you are to swim 8 meters in order to cross a trail.
Just looking at the pile of rocks at the entrance of the cave made my heart beat faster!
We noticed that as we drew nearer to the cave's entrance, that we were not alone. A group of 5 were there ahead of us with all their long lenses and sophisticated cameras. They were all so busy setting up and taking photos here and there. A few steps more led us to this:
According to kuya John, it was customary for their ancestors to place the coffins of their loved ones at the entrance of the cave. This way, their remains will be protected from extreme weather conditions but not far enough for sunlight to shine on them.
Also, notice how these coffins are sealed with wooden pegs. 
Contrary to what most people think looking at the size of these coffins, these are actually for adults. 
Our guide said the bones inside seemed even bigger and longer than the 
average adult men and women of Sagada
At the far left of the picture, notice that the pile of coffins are missing the ones placed on top.
This was brought about by an accident that happened years before when coffins at the top fell and the remains got eroded over time. Tourists my have had a hand in this, they say.
Before we went any further down, Kuya John gave us a short briefing.
He emphasized that indeed what we are about to take on is dangerous. Seriously.
So, we need to take all the safety precautions at all times.
That's our guide right there with his backpack and his magic lamp. 
So we begin!
Early on we learned that the term 'caving' is actually for professionals--who study caves and all that stuff.
The term 'spelunking' is for guests like us who just pass through the caves taking nothing but pictures and leaving nothing but footprints...aaaand maybe some handprints. 
We had to use all our limbs to get through boulders and very small crevices. 
This cave is big...but man! you need to squeeze yourself in between rocks just to get through.
Exhibit A. 
Our guide was the first one to get down so he can position himself like a human ladder.
Wait a minute. what? yes. You heard it right. We will, without a doubt, step on him!
Imagine that! And he wasn't even standing on level ground. He had one foot locked on a rock and the other one trying to balance his weight on another boulder.
Before he asked me to go down, he gave instructions on where to put my right foot and where to position my left foot next. I also need to use the rope to shift my weight when I move down and simply hang on to it, in case...........in case whaaaat?
He then said I can step on his shoulder as I go down then put my foot on his lap just before I reach the landing. Good thing I managed. Now it's his turn.
Seeing him do this with a smile on his face is a huge relief for me. Because to begin with, he wasn't really a fan of extreme activities, of heights and stuff. But he agreed to do this and found out that he was actually enjoying it. Hopefully this will become the first of many!
Yey!!!We're having fun with our buwis buhay activities!
Nyahahaha! Don't ever think, that you will encounter that passage only once when you're inside Lumiang---
because you will encounter it many times. My palms were a bit sore from bearing all my weight sometimes when my legs aren't anchored on a rock yet.
Every so often, I take a picture of where we actually came from. And this is all I got. Without the light from the gasera, it was pitch black inside Lumiang. And oh it was freezing inside too!
When I asked where the cold wind is coming from, Kuya said there are lot of spaces from the boulders that allows air outside to get into the cave.
That hole is small. We had to get past that just to move forward--which brought us to the question of,
was there ever a time when a tourist decided to bail out?
Kuya John said, yes but that only means that they have to go back through the smallest of passages and they don't recommend it because it poses great danger. The only way to go is to move forward to reach the more passable cave which is Sumaguing.
So there was absolutely, literally---NO TURNING BACK!
Can you recognize that our guide actually looked small in this photo? That's how far down he is.
Oh my!!!! And the depth below him is unimaginable--you can't see any landing beyond the point of where he is. I was scared alright. Really. If others have braved this before us, 
then there's not a doubt that we can muster all the courage we have left,
and just get through this.
Phew!
True enough! We did it with a smile and a skyrocketing heartbeat!haha!
Oh and another one!
and this..

You made me proud!! 
At this point, it was more of : "Yey! Another one!"
with my knees slight shaking. haha!


familiar? It looked and FELT like the movie: 127 hours
a breather

my attempt of taking a photo of the cave ceiling.
Below is when there are time that you have to go down on all fours, including buttocks

my lizard with a headlight ;-)
for the first few hours we were focused on holding on to dear life---I mean,more focused
on where to go next, how to do it and what body part to use---we missed
shots of rock formations. However, in Lumiang, there were not so much rock formations to appreciate,
here are just a few:
Rice terraces

These rock formation, according to our guide, is signaling that we are about to cross our second cave which is Sumaguing. He said that we can now worry less because this second cave, is more friendly to spelunkers, simply because passage is not that narrow and steep and it has wider space to walk through.
Here's water-marker: evidence that the water inside could reach this high
Next is the gateway to Sumaguing cave




Stalactites and Stalagmites seen here might just be the most beautiful there in is in the entire country!
This is know as the grand canyon.
Us under the giant mushroom

shadow wall

what looked like a giant coral

More photo ops here and there

some areas required us to take a dip in knee-high water--freezing!!!
and since water is more evident in this cave, we had to remove our sandals to avoid slipping
Kuya John said that as we take a look at the different formations that may just be about thousands of years old if not millions--Imagination is Key!
\

We were like kids again sliding over rocks and playing around.

When we entered this second cave, we saw there were a number of tourists already. They only took the Sumaguing spelunking experience. When its summer, this are tends to be more crowded and there maybe times that you have to wait for a group to finish at a certain area before you can move on.
Luckily for us, during that time, we didn't have to wait.
the prince
the lava cake ehehehe




the giant curtains

thanks to our guide who patiently took our photos at every chance he could get.
the secret cave




atop the bear's head
our lifeline

and yes it was cooooooold!



this could rise to a few more meters when it's rainy season
seashell NOT by the seashore but on the cave wall, again as proof that indeed Sagada was underwater eons ago..
the croc
molars
whose footprint that is, i don't want to know. I might not be able to handle it. ehehe
this is the last leg of our 4-hour ordeal inside Lumiang-Sumaguing
WE MADE IT!!!
In one piece!!!!!Haha! Thank you Lord for keeping us safe!

The exit of Sumaguing cave. Cave connection off our bucket lists!
Yay!!!!